By Jack Sheremetoff , July 1999
There by horse - back by helicopter!

It has become a tradition to visit Shumak every year. Why does it magnetize me? Maybe because it adds more colors to life. Or this place brings more power to my batteries.

Shumak is hidden behind the spectacular, remote and ancient Sayan mountains, rising to 2900m. Normally, tourists take a 200km bus ride from Irkutsk to the small village of Nilova Pustyn. Then comes the 50km hike, scaling the 2700m Shumaksky peak to reach Shumak, where two pure Siberian rivers meet. Depending on your physical condition and weight of rucksack, the hike takes between 2 - 4 days walking.

My girlfriend was suppose to accompany me on this trip and we decided to hire a horse to ease our burden a little. After long negotiations, we persuaded a Buryat horse man to take us to Shumak on horseback. He was to escort us to the place, stay there 6 days and return with us to the village. After an hour we got used to riding the horses: a sleeping cow boy spirit woke up in our souls! We spent twelve hours in the saddle and arrived in Shumak at midnight. I paid the first half of our guide's fee. Two dozen wooden huts have been built at Shumak area. Each hut is well equipped and roomy enough for several people. There are also small houses for couples. Next morning, we went to drink mineral water. Each mineral spring has signs, indicating its special health-giving powers: "Liver", "Stomach", "Ayes", " Man's strength" etc. It's said that consuming these waters three times a day for two weeks will significantly increase the health level. In my experience this is true!

Our horseman came in three days to inform us that he had to go back to the village. This was not according to schedule and we did not want to leave early, but, at the same time, we did not want to return on foot. The Buryat horseman gave us time to think and suggested that we be ready for departure next day.

My nature protested against such a monopoly! Luckily, a kind man informed us that a helicopter would pick up a large group of tourists the next day. Next morning we packed and moved our things to the open place used for helicopters. Other trekkers were already gathering. Green military -type helicopter quickly approached and landed without switching off its rotor blades. I came closer through the wind and noise to the pilot's window. "May we come with you?" I gestured. The pilot nodded. Yes! We grabbed our backpacks and rushed to board the helicopter. Inside was windless but still very noisy, I shouted to the pilot: How much? His reply was: Nothing!!! What a lucky day today! We found ourselves back home after 40 of the most noisy minutes.